Fitting the curb bit correctly

If you are a dressage rider who wants to compete in higher classes, sooner or later you will have to deal with the subject of the double bridle, as the double bridle is mandatory in most tests from medium (M) level upwards.

The following article is intended to provide instructions on how to choose, buckle and use curb bits correctly and in a horse-friendly manner in order to ensure a happy horse and fine aids for the rider.

In principle, everyone can decide for themselves whether they want to ride with a double bridle. Anyone who decides to do so should have completed the training path up to the curb bit. The curb bit is an aid for refining the aids, but also serves to test riding skills and requires the following skills from the rider and horse:

  • Balanced and relaxed seat, independent of the hand
  • Fine rider's hand, even and coordinated action
  • Interplay of aids should work
  • Satisfied and calm contact with snaffle bit
  • Balanced horse that does not lean on the reins
  • Good response to and acceptance of weight, leg and rein aids
  • The horse should already show willingness to collect, have developed basic self-carriage, pushing and carrying power

In the equestrian discipline of dressage, the curb bit is always used in combination with a snaffle bit. It is ridden with two pairs of reins and a constant connection, whereby the rein aids are primarily given via the snaffle bit. The double bridle rein is only required to refine the aids.

The double bridle has a single or double broken mouthpiece and is operated via the main reins. The rider acts on the horse's mouth via the tongue. The effect therefore corresponds to that of a normal snaffle bit. In the article 'How to find the right bit' you can find more information on the different types of bits and their effect.

The curb bit is used in addition to the snaffle bit. It consists of a rigid, unbroken mouthpiece and the side parts with an upper and lower tree and a chin chain. The cheekpiece of the double bridle is attached to the so-called upper tree. The chin chain hooks for the chin chain are also attached here. The rings for attaching the double bridle reins are located at the lower end of the lower tree. When the curb bit is accepted, the upper and lower bars rotate around the mouthpiece, creating a leverage effect and exerting pressure on the poll.

The ratio between the upper and lower beams, or the length of the lower beam, determines the strength of the leverage effect. The most common lengths of the lower beams are 5 cm and 7 cm. A shorter bit, also known as a baby bit, reacts faster but has less leverage on the poll than a longer bit.

The chin chain is hooked into the chin chain hooks. The chain links must be turned out and lie with the flat side against the lower jaw. This limits the pressure exerted on the poll. When the double bridle reins are tightened, the side part rotates until the chin chain begins to "grip". Ideally, this happens when the angle between the lower jaw and the mouth gap is between 30 and 45°.

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Damit das Reiten auf Kandare funktioniert, ist es notwendig, sich mit dem Thema und der Verschnallung genauer zu beschäftigen. 

Eines der größten und weit verbreitetsten Missverständnisse beim Thema Kandare ist die Gebissweite. Der Satz „die Unterlegtrense muss größer sein als die Kandare“ ist zwar grundsätzlich nicht verkehrt, allerdings irreführend! Als Ergebnis dieses Missverständnisses findet man leider viele Reiter, die mit zu großen Gebissen reiten und diese dann zwangsläufig zu hoch verschnallen. Hier beginnt oft ein Kreislauf, bei dem ein Problem das nächste begünstigt.

Correct: The underlay bit should preferably have the same bit width and shape as the normally used (and suitable) snaffle bit. The underlay bit is also buckled at the same point in the horse's mouth, not higher. The distance to the first molar in the lower jaw should be at least 1-2 fingers so that the mouthpiece does not touch the tooth when the reins are taken. Essentially, the only difference between the snaffle bit and the everyday bit is the smaller ring size and lower thickness (standard 12-14mm).

The curb bit lies a little further down in the horse's mouth. The horse's mouth is narrower at this point, which is why the curb bit should generally be 0.5 to 1 cm smaller than the snaffle bit. The sides of the curb bit should be close to the corners of the mouth without pinching them. If there is too much space between the corner of the mouth and the side pieces, the curb bit can slip or tilt.

TheStrength of the bit depends on the space available in the horse's mouth. For small mouths, the bits should never be thicker than 16 mm. In Germany, a combination of a 14 mm thick snaffle bit and a 16 mm thick curb bit is used on average. For fine and small mouths, it is advisable to also choose a 14 mm thick curb bit.

The biggest challenge when fitting a curb bit is to assess the space available in the horse's mouth. This is because there must be room for two bits in the mouth, which must not touch each other when the reins are in place.

The area between the molars and the canines (if present) is decisive for this. However, the horse's cleft palate can also have an influence here.

Basically, the shorter the distance between the lower and upper teeth and the shorter the mouth gap, the more carefully the bits must be adjusted.

If the misunderstanding described above occurs, i.e. the snaffle bit is selected in the snaffle size and the bridle bit is one size larger, correct buckling becomes almost impossible.

If the bridle is too large or the distance between the bits is too small, the mouthpiece of the bridle can be placed under or over the bit and press into the horse's tongue or sensitive palate. This must be avoided at all costs.

Known problems that can arise from this are opening/blocking the mouth or pulling up/sticking out the tongue.

However, if you choose the right combination of curb bit and snaffle bit, your horse will run happily and approach the rider's hand with confidence, even with a curb bit.

There are many differentcurb bit models and bridlesto choose from. You could probably fill a whole book on this alone. If in doubt, you should seek advice from a specialist dealer or from us directly. This article is intended to offer at least one possible solution to the most common problems. More in-depth information on how different mouthpieces work can be foundin the blog 'How do I find the right bit?

The anatomical conditions in the horse's mouth should also be taken into account when choosing a curb bit and snaffle bit. Difficult cases usually have one of the problems described above: a short mouth gap and/or little space to the canine/molar. In these cases, the two bits are relatively close together and it is important to avoid them touching. Basically, we have to choose bits that save space. Curb bits with a slightly curved bar or higher tongue clearance that are inclined forwards are ideal for this. In contrast to a straight bar, these curbs create significantly more space for the bridle. Anatomically shaped bridles are also more "space-saving" in the direction of the curb mouthpiece than straight mouthpieces.

Horses with a thicker tongue or who do not like pressure on the tongue are often happier with a curb bit with a higher and wider tongue clearance, e.g. the Bemelman curb bit.For example, the Bemelman curb bit.

For stronger horses, a straighter bar can help them to push off the bit better and make the connection a little easier. Here, too, there are versions with different tongue clearances for tongues of different thicknesses.

PART OF YOUR PASSION.

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